For children and adults sometimes the task may seem overwhelminghow to collect a 3x3 rubik's cube. The scheme with pictures for beginners in this business is one of the main assistants.

Also, to make everything clear and transparent, you can use the video instructions. We will actively use both of these aids in practice, so that you finally learned to solve the eternal puzzle with a rubik's cube.

You can collect a rubik's cube in different ways and methods. You can do this in 15 moves, in 7 moves, and even in as many as 20. For many years, all sorts of wiseacres have been struggling to find the optimal solution to this problem. After all, a rubik's cube is a mechanical puzzle that lends itself to a completely logical solution. You only need step-by-step instructions, as well as a small supply of logic and patience.

Before you start, directly, the assembly algorithm, you should   learn key concepts.

The name of the toy speaks for itself - the cube consists of 6 sides (faces), 12 edges, 8 corners. The faces of the cube consist of 9 small colored elements that can rotate simultaneously, but only clockwise and against it. Letters of the Russian alphabet face names will be denoted as:

F - facade;

T - rear;

P - right;

L - left;

B - top;

N - bottom.

In many descriptions and diagrams there are designations of the faces of the cube in English.

Next Rubik's Cube Secret   lies in the arrangement of small colored elements.

1. Central cubes   determine the color of the entire side of the rubik's cube. These cubes will be called by analogy with the name of the faces (Φ, T, P), etc.
2. Edge cubes immediately adjoin two faces, therefore, the name will be double (for example, FP, PV) - depending on the faces with which they interact.
3. Corner cubescontain 3 letters in the name at once, since they relate to three faces at the same time (FPV).

And one more mini-secret - when you study the patterns of rotation of faces, letters without any additions will mean rotate 90 degrees clockwise, and letters with an extra ‘are counterclockwise.

Having understood all these conventions, it will be much easier for you to fold the rubik's cube and you will do it right and quickly. Also, for a change you can learn to do.

How to assemble a 3x3 rubik's cube: the easiest way, assembly diagram

The easiest and most reliable way to assemble our rubik's cube begins with the lower cross. Collect a cross on the bottom of the cube   and start the phased solution to the problem of how to collect a 3x3 rubik's cube: the easiest way, the diagram of which is right in front of you.

And, of course, the video tutorial with a detailed description of an experienced virtuoso will serve as the most understandable tool for building a cube.

3x3 rubik's cube assembly diagram for beginners in pictures

At the first stages of the practice of collecting a rubik's cube, we will use the same method of the cross, but this time we will have a cross of colored cubes on the upper edge. As you know, a high-speed assembly of a rubik's cube is waiting for you ahead, at this stage you should learn to correctly determine the location of the faces   and moving them in the plane of the cube.

Cube assembly methods are different, and now you have to learn how to collect a 3x3 rubik's cube: The beginner's scheme consists of 7 steps. At each of the steps for you are available pictures with a description of the assembly process. You may spend more time on this puzzle than anticipated, but you will solve the puzzle, which is not available to all the inhabitants of our planet! It’s worth it and sweat.

By the way, the last rubik's Cube World Recordthe speed was set in 4.73 seconds. And it belonged to the Australian student Felix Zemdegs, who defeated the previous record holder in just 0.01 seconds. We have nowhere to rush in this matter, so we carefully study the instructions and begin to collect the first layer.

The principle of assembling a rubik's cube from the initial cross   not so complicated. Here you need to properly study the location of the faces. And then - a matter of technology, as they say. We have already passed the basic concepts and rules for assembling a rubik's cube for dummies.

We are sure that the assembly scheme for the 3x3 Rubik's Cube for beginners in pictures helped you set your own record and in further attempts you will reduce the time to a minimum.

If all these steps and formulas seemed complicated and confusing to you, we suggest that you review the video, in which the whole process is shown in detail on the example of a virtual Rubik's Cube.

3x3 Rubik's Cube formulas: calculating moves

If you think that the previous methods for assembling the proverbial cube were intended exclusively for stupid ones, catch a few formulas.

In the penultimate step, you have to correctly place the corner elements on the top layer!

At this stage, you will need to learn one or two formulas, a very quick and easy step in assembling the Rubik's Cube.

Step 6: assembling the corners on the top layer

  In this step, your task is to arrange the four corner elements in the upper layer in their places. Hold your Rubik's Cube with the yellow side up and twist the top layer (do B or B ’a couple of times), looking at the corner elements of the last layer. It is necessary to choose the position of the last layer, when the maximum number of corner elements are in place.

A very common situation is when all four side elements are in place - this assembly step is completed.

At this stage, you do not pay attention to the side elements of the last layer. Perhaps only 2 cases:

View from above	Algorithm	Explanation
	P B2 P ’B’ P B2 L ’W’ W ’L	Option 1: this algorithm swaps 2 corner elements located on one, right side. This algorithm also changes two side elements, but at this stage this is not important.
	L ’W P W’ L W L ’W P’ W ’ L B2 P B2 P ’	Option 2: this algorithm changes 2 corner elements located diagonally. The formula is long, not complicated - you can execute it in 3 seconds.   If you are not in a hurry and you don’t want to memorize two formulas, you can do it differently: “Run the first algorithm - the elements will change places and you will have to execute the first algorithm 2-3 times, but you won’t have to learn an extra long formula.”

How to collect a Rubik's Cube

In a nutshell: if you remember 7 simple formulas with a length of not more than 8 rotations each, then you can safely learn how to assemble an ordinary 3x3x3 cube in a couple of minutes. Faster than a minute and a half, this algorithm will not work to assemble a cube, but two or three minutes is easy!

Introduction

Like any cube, the puzzle has 8 angles, 12 edges and 6 faces: upper, lower, right, left, front and back. Usually, each of the nine squares on each face of the Cube is painted in one of six colors, usually arranged in pairs opposite each other: white-yellow, blue-green, red-orange, forming 54 color squares. Sometimes, instead of solid flowers, they are applied on the verge of a cube, then it becomes even more difficult to assemble.

In the assembled (“initial”) state, each face consists of squares of the same color, or all the pictures on the faces are correctly folded. After several turns, the Cube “stirs”.

To collect the Cube is to return it from the mixed state to its original state. This, in fact, is the main meaning of the puzzle. Many enthusiasts take pleasure in assembling "solitaire" - patterns .

Cube alphabet

The Classic Cube consists of 27 parts (3x3x3 \u003d 27):

6 one-color central elements (6 "centers")

12 two-color side or rib elements (12 “ribs”)

8 three-color corner elements (8 "corners")

1 inner element - cross

A cross (or ball, depending on the design) is located in the center of the cube. Centers are attached to it and thereby fasten the remaining 20 elements, preventing the puzzle from falling apart.

Elements can be rotated in “layers” - in groups of 9 pieces. We consider the rotation of the outer layer clockwise by 90 ° (if you look at this layer) to be “direct” and we will designate it with a capital letter, and the counterclockwise rotation - “reverse” to the line - and we will designate it with a capital letter with the apostrophe "" ".

6 outer layers: Top, Bottom, Right, Left, Front (front layer), Rear (back layer). There are three more inner layers. In this assembly algorithm, we will not rotate them separately; we will only use rotations of the outer layers. In the world of speedcubers, it is customary to make notations in Latin letters from the words Up, Down, Right, Left, Front, Back.

Turn Signals:

clockwise (↷) - B N P L F T ⇔U D R L F B

counterclockwise (↶) - In "N" P "L" F "T" ⇔U "D" R "L" F "B"

When assembling the Cube, we will sequentially rotate the layers. The sequence of turns is recorded from left to right one after another. If some rotation of the layer needs to be repeated two times, then an icon of degree “2” is placed after it. For example, Ф 2 means that you need to rotate the front two times, i.e. Ф 2 \u003d ФФ or Ф "Ф" (as it is more convenient). In Latin notation, F2 is written instead of F 2. I will write formulas in two notations - cyrillic   and latin, separating them with such a sign ⇔.

For the convenience of reading long sequences, they are divided into groups that are separated from the neighboring groups by points. If you need to repeat a sequence of turns, then it is enclosed in parentheses and the number of repetitions is written at the top right of the closing bracket. In Latin notation, a multiplier is used instead of an exponent. In square brackets I will indicate the number of such a sequence or, as they are usually called, “formulas”.

Now, knowing the conditional language for the notation of the rotation of the Cube layers, you can proceed directly to the assembly process.

Assembly

There are many ways to build a cube. There are those that allow a couple of formulas to collect a cube, but in a few hours. Others - on the contrary, by storing a couple of hundred formulas allow you to collect a cube in a dozen seconds.

Below I will describe the simplest (from my point of view) method, which is visual, easy to understand, requires memorizing only seven simple “formulas”, and at the same time allows you to assemble the Cube in a couple of minutes. When I was 7 years old, I mastered such an algorithm in a week and collected a die in an average of 1.5-2 minutes, which amazed my friends and classmates. Therefore, I call this method of assembly "simple." I will try to explain everything “on the fingers”, almost without pictures.

We will collect the Cube in horizontal layers, first the first layer, then the second, then the third. The assembly process will be divided into several stages. In total there will be five and one additional.

6/26 At the very beginning, the cube is dismantled (but the centers are always in place).

Assembly steps:

10/26 - the cross of the first layer ("upper cross")

14/26 - corners of the first layer

16/26 - second layer

22/26 - the cross of the third layer ("lower cross")

26/26 - corners of the third layer

26/26 - (optional step) rotation of the centers

To build a classic Cube, you need the following "Formulas":

PV "PV ⇔FU "RU   - rotation of the rib of the upper cross

(P "N" · PN) 1-5 ⇔(R "D · RD) 1-5   - “Z-switch”

VP · V "P" · V "F" · VF ⇔UR · U "R" · U "F" · UF   - rib 2 layers down and to the right

V "L" · VL · VF · V "F" ⇔U "L" · UL · UF · U "F"   - rib 2 layers down and left

FPV · P "V" F " ⇔FRU · R "U" F "   - rotation of the ribs of the lower cross

PV · P "V · PV" 2 · P "V ⇔RU · R "U · RU" 2 · R "U   - rearrangement of the ribs of the lower cross ("fish")

V "P" · VL · V "P · VL" ⇔U "R" · UL · U "R · UL"   - rearrangement of corners 3 layers

The first two stages could not be described, because to assemble the first layer is quite easy "intuitively". But, nevertheless, I will try to describe everything thoroughly and on my fingers.

Stage 1 - the cross of the first layer ("upper cross")

The purpose of this stage: the correct location of the 4 upper edges, which together with the upper center constitute the “cross".

So, the cube is completely disassembled. Actually not completely. A distinctive feature of the classic Cube is its design. Inside is a cross (or ball) that firmly connects the centers. The center determines the color of the entire face of the cube. Therefore, 6 centers are always already in place! First, select the top. Usually assembly begins with a white top and a green front. For non-standard colors, choose as convenient. We hold the Cube so that the upper center (“top”) is white, and the front center (“front”) is green. The main thing when assembling is to remember what color we have top, and what front, and when rotating the layers, you do not accidentally rotate the entire Cube and not go astray.

Our goal is to find an edge with the colors of the top and front and establish it between them. At the very beginning, we look for a white-green rib and put it between the white top and the green front. We call the required element “working cube” or RC.

So, we begin assembly. The top is white, the front is green. We look around the Cube from all sides, without letting go of it, without fingering it and without rotating the layers. We are looking for RK. It can be located anywhere. Found it. After that, in fact, the assembly process itself begins.

If the RC is in the first (upper) layer, then by double rotation of the outer vertical layer on which it is located, we “drive” it down to the third layer. We do the same if the RC is in the second layer, only in this case we drive it down not by double but by single rotation.

It is desirable to drive out so that the RK turns out to be the color of the top down, then it will be easier to install it in place. When driving the RC down, you need to remember the ribs that are already in place, and if any rib has been touched, then you must not forget to return it to the place by reverse rotation.

After the RC was on the third layer, we rotate the bottom and “adjust” the RC to the center of the front. If the RC is already on the third layer, then simply set it in front of us from below, rotating the bottom layer. After that turn F 2 ⇔F2   put the RK in place.

After the RK is in place, there can be two options: either it is correctly rotated, or not. If it is rotated correctly, then everything is OK. If rotated incorrectly, then invert it with the formula PV "PV ⇔FU "RU   . If the RK is “kicked out” correctly, i.e. color top down, then this formula is practically not necessary to apply.

We proceed to the installation of the next rib. Without changing the top, we change the front, i.e. we turn the Cube to ourselves with a new side. And again we repeat our algorithm until all the remaining edges of the first layer are in place, forming a white cross on the top face.

During the assembly process, it may turn out that the RC is already in place or it can be put in place (without destroying the already assembled) without first dropping down, but "immediately." Well and good! In this case, the cross will gather faster!

So, already 10 out of 26 elements are in place: 6 centers are always in place and 4 edges we just set.

Stage 2 - the angles of the first layer

The goal of the second stage is to collect the entire top layer, setting four corners in addition to the already assembled cross. In the case of the cross, we searched for the desired rib and placed it in the front top. Now, our RK is not an edge, but a corner, and we will put it in the front, top and right. To do this, we will do the same as in the first stage: first we find it, then “drive” it to the bottom layer, then put it in front of the bottom right, i.e. under the place we need, and after that we drive up.

There is one beautiful and simple formula. (P "N" · Mon) ⇔(R "D" · RD)   . She even has a smart name -. She must be remembered.

We are looking for an element to work with (RK). An angle should appear in the upper right near corner, having the same colors as the centers of the top, front and right. We find him. If the RC is already in place and correctly rotated, then by turning the whole Cube we change the front and look for a new RC.

If the PK is in the third layer, then rotate the bottom and adjust the PK to the desired place, i.e. front bottom right.

Twist the Z-switch! If the angle doesn’t fall into place, or if it is turned up incorrectly, then turn the Z switch one more time, and so on, until the RC is at the top in place and correctly rotated. Sometimes you need to twist the Z-switch up to 5 times.

If the RC is in the upper layer and not in place, then we expel it from there by any other using the same Z-switch. That is, first we turn the Cube so that the top remains white, and the RC that needs to be kicked out is in the upper right in front of us and turn the Z-switch. After the RC is “kicked out”, we again turn the Cube to ourselves with the necessary front, rotate the bottom, put the already kicked out RC under the place we need, and drive it up to the Z-switch. We twist the Z-switch until the cube is oriented as it should.

We apply this algorithm for the remaining angles. As a result, we get the fully assembled first layer of the Cube! 14 of 26 dice stand still!

For some time we will admire this beauty and turn over the Cube so that the assembled layer is at the bottom. Why is this necessary? We will soon need to start assembling the second and third layers, and the first layer is already assembled and interferes with it from above, covering all the layers of interest to us. Therefore, we turn them up to better see all the remaining and unassembled disgrace. The top and bottom swapped, right and left too, but the front with the rear remained the same. The top is now yellow. We proceed to the assembly of the second layer.

I want to warn you, with each step, the Cube takes on a more assembled look, but when you turn the formulas, the already assembled sides are mixed. The main thing is not to panic! At the end of the formula (or sequence of formulas), the Cube will reassemble. Unless, of course, the main rule is observed, during the rotation process you cannot twist the entire Cube so as not to accidentally go astray. Only individual layers, as written in the formula.

Stage 3 - second layer

So, the first layer is assembled, and it is below. We need to put 4 ribs of the 2nd layer. They can now be on both the second and the third (now upper) layer.

Select any edge on the top layer without the color of the top face (without yellow). Now it will be our RK. Rotating the top, we adjust the RC so that it coincides in color with some side center. We turn the cube so that this center becomes the front.

Now there are two options: our work cube needs to be moved down to the second layer either to the left or to the right.

There are two formulas for this:

down and right VP · V "P" · V "F" · VF ⇔UR · U "R" · U "F" · UF

down and left V "L" · VL · VF · V "F" ⇔U "L" · UL · UF · U "F"

If suddenly the RC was already in the second layer, not in its place, or in its own, but incorrectly rotated, then we “expel” it with any other, using one of these formulas, and then apply this algorithm again.

Be careful. The formulas are long, it is impossible to make mistakes, otherwise the Cube will “figure it out” and will have to start the assembly anew. It's okay, even champions sometimes get lost in the assembly.

In total, after this stage we have two layers collected - 19 of the 26 cubes are in place!

(If you want to optimize the assembly of the first two layers a little, you can use it here.)

Stage 4 - the cross of the third layer ("lower cross")

The goal of this step is to collect the cross of the last unassembled layer. Although the unassembled layer is now at the top, the cross is called the “bottom”, because in the initial state this layer was at the bottom.

First, we will turn the edges so that they all face up with a color matching the color of the top. If they have all been turned up so that a single-color flat cross is obtained at the top, we proceed to move the edges. If the cubes are not rotated correctly, we will turn them over. There may be several cases of edge orientation:

A) all rotated incorrectly

B) two adjacent ones are incorrectly rotated

C) two opposite rotated incorrectly

(There can be no other options! That is, it cannot be such that only one edge is left over. If two layers of the cube are assembled, and on the third there is an odd number of edges left over, then you can no longer steam, a.)

Remember the new formula: FPV · P "V" F " ⇔FRU · R "U" F "

In case A) we twist the formula and get case B).

In case B), we rotate the Cube so that two correctly rotated edges are left and behind, we twist the formula and we get case C).

In case B) we turn the Cube so that the correctly rotated ribs are left and right, and, again, we twist the formula.

As a result, we get a “flat” cross from correctly oriented, but not in the right places edges. Now you need to make the right volumetric cross from a flat cross, i.e. move the ribs.

Remember the new formula: PV · P "V · PV" 2 · P "V ⇔RU · R "U · RU" 2 · R "U   ("Fish").

We twist the top layer so that at least two ribs fall into place (the colors of their sides coincide with the centers of the side faces). If everyone fell into place, then the cross is assembled, go to the next stage. If not everything is in place, then there may be two cases: either two adjacent in place, or two opposite in place. If they are opposite in place, then we twist the formula and get neighboring ones in place. If the adjacent ones are in place, then turn the Cube so that they are on the right and behind. We twist the formula. After this, the ribs that were not in place will change places. The cross is assembled!

NB: a little comment about the "fish". This formula uses rotation IN 2 ⇔U "2, that is, rotate the top counterclockwise two times. In principle, for the Rubik's Cube IN 2 ⇔U "2 = IN 2 ⇔U2, but it’s better to remember it IN 2 ⇔U "2, because this formula can come in handy for assembling, for example, megaminx. But in the megaminx IN 2 ⇔U "2 ≠ IN 2 ⇔U2, since one turn there is not at 90 °, but at 72 °, and IN 2 ⇔U "2 = IN 3 ⇔U3.

Stage 5 - corners of the third layer

It remains to install in place, and then correctly rotate the four corners.

We remember the formula: V "P" · VL · V "P · VL" ⇔U "R" · UL · U "R · UL" .

We look at the corners. If they are all in place and it remains only to turn them correctly, then we look at the next paragraph. If no corner is in place, then we twist the formula, while one of the corners will definitely fall into place. We are looking for an angle that stands still. We turn the cube so that this corner is behind the right. We twist the formula. If the cubes did not fall into place, then we twist the formula again. After that, all the corners should be in their places, it remains to turn them correctly, and the Cube will be almost assembled!

At this stage, it remains either to turn three cubes clockwise, or three counterclockwise, or one clockwise and one counterclockwise, or two clockwise and two counterclockwise. There can be no other options! Those. it cannot be that there is only one corner cube left to turn over. Or two, but both clockwise. Or two clockwise, and one against. The right combinations are: (- - -), (+ + +), (+ -), (+ - + -), (+ + - -) . If two layers are assembled correctly, on the third layer the correct cross is assembled and the wrong combination is obtained, then again you can no longer steam, but go for a screwdriver (read). If everything is correct, read on.

Recall our Z-switch (P "N" · Mon) ⇔R "D" · RD   . We turn the cube so that the incorrectly oriented angle is front right. We twist the Z-switch (up to 5 times) until the angle rotates correctly. Further, without changing the front, we rotate the top layer so that the next “wrong” angle is in front right, and we rotate the Z-commutator again. And so we do, until all the corners unfold. After that, we rotate the top layer so that the colors of its faces coincide with the already collected first and second layers. All! If we had a regular six-color cube, then it is already assembled! It remains to turn the Cube with the original top (which is now from the bottom) up to get the original state.

All. The cube is assembled!

I hope you find this guide useful!

Stage 6 - Rotation of the centers

Why is not the cube going ?!

Many people ask the question: “I do everything as written in the algorithm, but the cube is still not going to. Why?" Usually an ambush awaits on the last layer. Two layers are easy to assemble, but the third - nothing at all. Everything is mixed, you begin to reassemble, again two layers, and again when assembling the third, everything is mixed. Why could this be?

There are two reasons - obvious and not so:

Obvious. You do not follow the algorithms exactly. It is enough to make one turn in the wrong direction or to skip some turn so that the whole Cube is stirred. At the initial stages (when assembling the first and second layers), an incorrect rotation is not very fatal, but when assembling the third layer, the slightest mistake leads to the complete mixing of all assembled layers. But if you exactly follow the assembly algorithm described above, then everything should come together. The formulas are all time-tested, there are no errors in them.

Not very obvious. And most likely this is the case. Chinese manufacturers make Cubes of different quality - from professional champion cubes for high-speed assembly to falling apart in the hands at the first rotations. What do people usually do if the cube falls apart? Yes, they drop in the cubes that have fallen out, and do not worry about how they were oriented and where they stood. And you can’t do that! Rather, it is possible, but the probability after that to collect the Rubik's Cube will be extremely small.

If the cube fell apart (or, as the speedcubers say, “pompanul”), and it was not assembled correctly, then when assembling the third layer, there are likely to be problems. How to solve this problem? Break it down again and assemble it correctly!

On a cube with two layers assembled, you need to gently pry the cap of the central cube of the third layer with a flat screwdriver or knife, remove it, unscrew the screw with a small Phillips screwdriver, and do not lose the spring worn on the screw. Carefully pull out the corner and side cubes of the third layer and insert them correctly color to color. At the end, insert and screw on the previously unscrewed central cube (do not tighten strongly). Twist the third layer. If it is spinning tightly, loosen the screw; if it is too easy, tighten. It is necessary that all the faces spin with the same effort. After that, close the lid on the central cube. All.

Without loosening, you can rotate any face by 45 °, pry one of the on-board cubes with your finger, a knife or a flat screwdriver and pull it out. Only this must be done carefully, because you can break the cross. Then, in turn, pull out the necessary cubes and insert them back into their places already correctly oriented. After everything has been assembled color to color, you will also need to insert (snap) the onboard cube, which was pulled out at the beginning (or some other, but the onboard, because the corner insert will not work out for sure).

After that, the Cube can be mixed and safely assembled with the above algorithm. And now he’ll definitely get together! Unfortunately, one cannot do without such “barbaric” procedures with a knife and a screwdriver, since if the Cube was incorrectly folded after the collapse, it cannot be assembled by rotation.

PS: if you can’t even collect two layers, then first you need to make sure that at least the centers are in the right places. Perhaps someone moved the lids of the centers. The standard coloring should be 6 colors, white in front of yellow, blue in front of green, red in front of orange. Usually the top is white, the bottom is yellow, the front is orange, the rear is red, on the right is green, on the left is blue. But absolutely exactly the relative arrangement of colors is determined by the corner cubes. For example, you can find the angular white-blue-red and see that the colors in it are located clockwise. So, if it’s white on the top, then it should be blue on the right and red on the front.

PPS: if someone joked, and not just rearranged the elements of the cube, but re-glued the stickers, then it is generally unrealistic to assemble the Cube as long as you don’t break it up. No screwdriver will help here. It is necessary to calculate which stickers were re-glued, and then re-stick them in their places.

Is it even easier?

Well, how much easier? This is one of the simplest algorithms. The main thing is to understand it. If you want to pick up the Rubik's Cube for the first time and learn how to assemble it in a couple of minutes, it’s better to put it aside and do some less intellectual work. Any training, including the simplest algorithm, requires time and practice, as well as brains and perseverance. As I said above, I mastered this algorithm myself in a week when I was 7 years old, and I was sitting on sick leave with a sore throat.

To some, this algorithm may seem complicated, because it has many formulas. You can try using some other algorithm. For example, you can build a Cube using one single formula, for example, the same Z-switch. Only this method will have to be collected for a long, long time. You can take another formula, for example, Ф · PV "P" V "· PVP" F "· PVP" V "· P" FPF ", which swaps 2 side and 2 corner cubes in pairs. And using simple preparatory rotations, gradually collect cube, setting in place first all the on-board cubes, and then the corner ones.

Algorithms are a huge bunch, but each of them needs to be approached with due attention, and each requires enough time to master.

Steps of assembling a 6x6 Rubik's Cube: We collect the centers (16 elements each) + Assemble the edges (4 elements each) + Assemble as a 3x3 cube.
   But first - the language of rotations, the designation of faces and turns.

L - rotation of the left side, Number 3 in front of the letter means the number of faces rotated at the same time. For example - 3L, 3R, 3U, etc ... Small letters indicate the inner faces of the cube. For example - r, l, u, b, f ...

The number 3 in front of the small letter means the rotation of one indicated inner middle (third) face. For example - 3l, 3r, 3u, etc. ... The simultaneous rotation of two internal faces is indicated by the numbers 2-3 in front of the small letters meaning this face. For example - 2-3r, 2-3l ...

"- a stroke after the letter indicates that the rotation is AGAINST the CLOCK HAND. For example - U", L ", R" ...

You need to turn the face towards you in order to orient yourself in the direction of rotation - clockwise or counterclockwise. Further in the formulas we will also use the notation R2, U2, F2 ... - this means turning the face 2 times, i.e. by 180.

Stage 1. Assembly of centers.

At the first stage, you need to collect the central (sixteen elements) on each side of the 6x6 cube (Fig. 1). The center is 16 elements of the same color in the middle of each face. If you rotate only the outer edges (Fig. 2), you will not violate the position of the central elements of the cube. Rotate the outer edges to position the center elements that you want to swap. Use the formula to swap elements. Moreover, the previously collected elements of the remaining centers will not be violated.

By rotating the outer faces, we achieve the correct positioning of the elements from the center of the cube before applying the corresponding formula. And do not forget that the centers in the 6x6 cube are not strictly fixed! They need to be set focusing on corner elements, according to their colors, and you need to do this from the very beginning.

3r U "2L" U 3r "U" 2L		2R U "3l" U 2R "U" 3l
2R U 2R "U 2R U2 2R"		3r U 3r "U 3r U2 3r"
3r U 3l "U" 3r "U 3l

It is simple and interesting to assemble the first four centers, for this it is not at all necessary to know the formulas, it is enough to understand the basic principles.

Also, the entire first stage of the assembly, you can see the video.

Stage 2. Assembly of the ribs.

At the second stage, you need to collect the four edge elements of the cube. Starting positions before applying the formulas are given in the figures. The cross shows the rib pairs that are not yet docked and will be affected during the application of the formula. The application of the formulas does not affect all other previously assembled ribs and centers. Everywhere in the figures it is believed that yellow is the front (front face), red is the top. You may have a different arrangement of centers - it does not matter.

The result to be reached in the second stage.

r U L "U" r "		3r U L "U" 3r "
3l "U L" U "3l		l "U L" U "l

It is important to understand the idea of \u200b\u200bthis stage. All formulas consist of 5 steps. Step 1 is always the rotation of the faces (right or left) so as to align the 2 edge elements. Step 2 is always turning the top. Where to turn the top depends on which side there is an unassembled edge that you substitute instead of the docked in step 1. In the pictures and in these formulas, this edge is on the left, but it can also be on the right. Step 3 is always turning one right or left side so that instead of a joined edge, substitute a non-joined edge. Steps 4 and 5 are the reverse turns of steps 2 and 1 to return the cube to its original state. So - docked, removed to the side, set up the unassembled, returned back.
  For a more visual demonstration, watch the video.

This article provides step-by-step instructions for beginners, with which you can collect the Rubik's cube in a layered manner. Compared to other methods, this method is quite simple, because you will not need to memorize many sequential actions. Mastering the layered method will help you subsequently smoothly switch to the Jessica Friedrich quick assembly method, thanks to which the cube is assembled in competitions in less than 20 seconds. In order to conquer this insidious puzzle of Erno Rubik, you need patience and diligence. Good luck

Steps

Part 1

  Terminology

Check out the three types of items.   There are three main types of elements in a Rubik's cube, the definition of which depends on their location in the cube.

• Central   the elements are located in the center of the cube on each of its sides, surrounded by the other eight elements. Each such element cannot be moved, and it has only one color.
• Corner   Elements are located at the corners of the cube. Each element has three different colors.
• Side   Elements are located between the corner elements. Each such element has two different colors.
• Note. Elements of one type cannot become elements of another. The corner element will always be in the corner of the cube.

Learn to distinguish the six sides of a cube.   Each side of the Rubik's Cube has its own color, which is determined by its central element. So, for example, the side in the center of which the red element is located will be the “red side”, even if there are no other red elements nearby. Nevertheless, sometimes it’s better to name the parties depending on their position relative to the side you are looking at. Here are a few terms that will be used in this guide:

• F   (Frontal) - raise the cube to eye level. Right in front of you will be the front side.
• 3   (Back) - This is the opposite side, which is not visible when you hold the cube in your hands.
• AT   (Upper) - side facing up.
• N   (Bottom) - side down.
• P   (Right) is the side to your right.
• L   (Left) is the side to your left.

Master the rotation of the cube clockwise and against it.   When determining the side of rotation of a face, it is assumed that the working face is currently in front of you. So a one-letter instruction (e.g. L) means that you need to turn the side 90 degrees clockwise (a quarter turn). If there is an apostrophe near the letter (for example, L "), then the side must be rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise. Here are some examples:

• F "   indicates that the front side must be turned counterclockwise.
• P   indicates that the right side needs to be rotated clockwise. That is, the right side must be rotated away from you. To understand the reason, turn the front side clockwise, and then flip the cube so that this side becomes right.
• L   indicates that the left side needs to be turned clockwise. That is, the left side must be rotated on itself.
• AT"   indicates that the upper side must be turned counterclockwise when viewed from top to bottom. That is, rotate on yourself.
• 3   indicates that the back side needs to be rotated clockwise if you look at the cube from the back side. See, do not confuse anything, since this rotation is similar to turning the front side counterclockwise.

Add a deuce to repeat the command. The number “2” after the side designation means that you need to rotate the side not 90 degrees, but 180. For example, H2 means that the bottom side needs to be rotated 180 degrees (half a turn).

• In this case, you do not have to indicate which way to make the turn. The result will be the same.

Learn to identify a specific element in a cube.   Sometimes the instructions will talk about a specific element in the cube. For this, all parties of which the element is a part will be indicated. Here are some examples of element layouts:

• NZ   \u003d side element that is part of the Back and Bottom sides.
• WFTU   \u003d corner element located between the Upper, Frontal and Right sides.
• Note. If the instructions say squared   (one-color sticker), then the first letter will indicate which side the square is on. For instance:
  • LFN   square → find the corner element that is part of the Left, Front and Bottom sides. The square of the element to be found is on the Left side (according to the first letter).

Part 2

Top side assembly

1. Rotate the cube so that the white center is located on side B, and let it be in this position for now.   The task of the stage is to arrange the lateral white elements around the center so that they form a cross on the white side.

   • It is assumed that you have a standard Rubik's cube in your hands, in which the white side is opposite the yellow one. If you have an older version of the cube, further instructions are unlikely to help you.
   • Do not remove the white center from the Top. Do not make the most common mistake in this step.

2. Move the white side elements up to form a cross.   The Rubik's Cube has many initial configurations, and it is simply impossible to describe step-by-step instructions for each of them, but we will give you some tips:

   • If the white side square is located in the lower layer of the sides P or L, rotate this side once so that the white square is in the middle layer. Proceed to the next step.
   • If the white side square is located in the middle layer of the sides P or L, turn the side that is next to this white square (F or Z). Keep turning the side until the white square is on the Bottom side. Proceed to the next step.
   • If the white side square is located on the Lower side, begin to rotate this side until the white square is directly opposite the empty (not white) side element of the Top side. Rotate the cube so that this empty element is on the VF (Top side next to the Front). Rotate Ф2 (half a turn clockwise) so that the white square is in place of the WF.
   • Repeat the same steps for each white side square until they are all on the Top.

3. Extend the cross down to the corner elements.   Take a look at the upper side elements of the sides F, P, Z and L. You need to make sure that next to each such element there is a central element of the same color. Here, for example, if the side square of the PV (the Front side near the Upper) is orange, then the central square of F should also be orange. Here's how to do it for all four parties:

   • Rotate B until at least two central elements of the upper layer match the color of the central elements of the middle layer. If all four elements match, you can skip the rest of the step.
   • Rotate the cube so that one of the wrong side elements is on the F side (and the white cross still remains on the B side).
   • Make Ф2 and make sure that one of the white side elements is now on the N. side. Remember the color of the other square of this white edge (the element on the FN). Suppose the square is red.
   • Turn side H until the red square is under the red center.
   • Rotate the red side 180 degrees. The side white element should return to side B.
   • Inspect side H for the appearance of a new white side square. Look again at the color of another square of the same element. Suppose it is green.
   • Rotate side H until the green square is directly below the green center.
   • Rotate the green side 180 degrees. After all the manipulations, the white cross should have returned to side B, and the side elements on the sides Ф, П, З and Л should be located exactly above the center of the color corresponding to them.

4. Move the white corner element to the white side.   You can easily get confused with this step, so read these instructions carefully. The result of the following actions will be the appearance of a white corner element on the white side next to the white center and edges.

   • Find the white corner element on the H side. The corner element will have three different colors: white, X and Y (by this time, the white side may no longer be on the H side).
   • Rotate the H side until the white / X / Y corner element is between the X and Y sides (do not forget that the X side is the side with the X element in the center).
   • Rotate the cube so that the white / X / Y corner element is in the NFP position. Do not pay attention to the position in which the various colors of this element will appear. The central squares of F and P should match the colors of X and Y. By the way, the Top side is still white.
   • From this point on, there are three options:
     • If the white square is on the F side (at the FPI position), apply F H F ".
     • If the white square is on the P side (in the PFN position), apply P "N" P.
     • If the white square is on the H side (in the NFP position), apply Ф Н2 Ф "Н" Ф Н Ф ".

5. Repeat the process with the rest of the corners.   Follow the same steps to move the other three white corners to the white side. As a result of this step, you should get a completely white Top side. The top layer, consisting of three squares, must coincide with the color of the central element on the sides Ф, П, З and L.

   • Sometimes a white corner element accidentally falls on side B (white), but is in the wrong position, because of which the color of the other two squares does not coincide with the center of this side. In this case, rotate the cube so that this element is in the WFT position, and then apply Ф Н Ф ". Now the white square will be on the Н side, and you can move it to the desired position according to the combinations described above.

Part 3

Middle layer assembly

1. Locate the side element on side H that is not yellow.   The white side is still in the Upper position, and the incomplete yellow side is in the Lower position. Look at side H and find on it a side element on which there is no yellow color. Mark the two squares of this element as follows:

   • Let the square on the side H be the color of X.
   • And the other square is Y.
   • It must be a side element. Do not try to move the corner.

2. Rotate the entire cube so that the center of color X is on the front side.   Rotate the cube along its vertical axis (as when turning the globe). Stop when the side with the center of color X is on the Front side.

   • In this case, the parties B and H must remain unchanged.

3. Turn side N. Rotate side H to either side until side element X / Y is in the NC position. Square X should be on the H side, and square Y on the H side.

   Twist the cube, relying on the position of the color Y.   The necessary movements will depend on where the center with color Y is located:

   • If color Y matches the center of the side of P, apply F N F "N" P "N" P.
   • If the color Y matches the color of the center of the side L, apply F "N" F N L N L ".

4. Repeat these steps until you have completely collected the two upper layers.   Find another side element on the H side that does not have a yellow square (if there are no more, go to the next step). Follow the same steps as before to move the item to the correct position. As a result, on the sides Ф, П, З and Л, the upper and middle layers will coincide in color.

5. Correct if all side elements of side H have a yellow square.   Be sure to check all four side elements on the N. side. Each of them has two colored squares, none of which should be yellow, otherwise all your actions in this section will go down the drain. If none of the side elements fits this description (and the top two layers are not finished yet), make the following changes:

   • Find the side element containing the yellow square.
   • Rotate the cube so that this element is in the FP position. The white side should remain on side B (move not the sides, but the entire cube).
   • Apply F N F "N" P "N" P.
   • Now on the H side there should be no side elements with a yellow square. Go back to the beginning of the section and repeat all the described actions for this side element.

Part 4

Yellow side assembly

Rotate the cube so that the yellow side is at the top.   The cube will be in this position until it is assembled.

6. Assemble the cross on the yellow side.   Pay attention to the number of yellow side elements on side B (do not confuse corner elements with side elements). You have four options:

   • If there are two opposing yellow side elements on the B side, rotate the B side until both elements are in the OHL and VP positions. Apply ZL VL "V" Z ".
   • If there are two adjacent yellow elements on the B side, move them to the WF and VP positions (forming an arrow when one is looking back and the other to the left). Apply H W L H L H.
   • If there are no yellow elements on side B, use one of the algorithms described above to move the two yellow side elements up. Then use the algorithm again that matches their location.
   • If there are four elements on the side, you have successfully collected the yellow cross. Proceed to the next step.